The Buyer's Inspection Report Just Came Back: How Should a Philadelphia Seller Respond?

Quick Answer: When a buyer sends repair requests after an inspection, you have three main choices: fix the items yourself, offer a credit, or decline and negotiate. Credits usually work best for big-ticket items, fixes for things a buyer needs done before closing (like a working air conditioner), and a polite "no" for cosmetic or minor items. Get contractor estimates before you answer, and read your agreement of sale first, because your deadlines and rights are in there.

What happens after the buyer's inspection?

The buyer's inspector walks the house, writes a report, and your buyer decides what to ask for. Depending on your agreement of sale, they may request repairs, ask for a credit or price reduction, accept the house as is, or in some cases end the agreement under the inspection contingency.

👉 The first thing I do with a seller is open the agreement of sale and check the inspection deadlines, what the buyer is allowed to ask for, and how long you have to respond. I was a lawyer before I was a realtor, and this is exactly where reading carefully pays off.

Do you have to make every repair the buyer asks for?

No. A repair request is the start of a negotiation, not an order. What you're obligated to do depends on the language in your agreement and any contingency the buyer has preserved, so look at that before you respond. If you're unsure, ask for a quick conversation with me or your attorney before you answer.

Should you fix it, give a credit, or say no?

Here's how the three options generally play out, based on a HomeLight guide to handling post-inspection requests:

• Credit: You give the buyer money toward the repair, either as a check at closing or a reduction of the price. This is usually preferred for large items or work that could delay closing. Get a contractor estimate and negotiate the amount.
• Fix: You hire a contractor yourself. This makes sense when the buyer insists on a repair before closing, such as an air-conditioning unit. You pay the actual cost, but the timeline risk is yours.
• Decline: You reject the request and negotiate from there. It works best for cosmetic items or minor issues, or when you have strong demand.

💰 For a sense of scale, the same guide cites examples such as about $202 per ungrounded outlet, about $500 for a soil-drainage fix, and $4 to $9 per linear foot for gutters. Your own contractor quotes will be more reliable than any general number.

How do you decide what to say yes to?

I sort items into three buckets:

1. Safety and system items. Electrical hazards, active leaks, heating or cooling that doesn't work. These are hard to refuse, and a buyer's lender or insurer may require them.
2. Big-ticket structural items. Roof, foundation, major plumbing. Get estimates and consider a credit instead of a rushed repair.
3. Cosmetic and minor items. Usually safe to decline, especially when your agent agrees.

What if you have multiple offers or strong demand?

Then you hold the stronger hand. If a buyer sends an outrageous demand list and you have other interest, the guide advises that it may be better to let that buyer go. I wouldn't recommend that casually, though, since a new buyer means a new inspection and possibly a new round of requests. Weigh the real cost of restarting.

What if you make the repairs yourself?

Keep before-and-after photos and paid receipts, and finish well before closing. A good rule of thumb from the same source is at least a week early, so the buyer can verify the work. Unlicensed or rushed repairs can create a second problem, so use licensed contractors for anything electrical, plumbing, or structural.

How can sellers avoid surprises in the first place?

Walk through the home with your agent before you list and fix or disclose likely issues up front. Set a clear inspection deadline in the agreement. Knowing the problems before the buyer's inspector does keeps you in control of the negotiation. For more on what to disclose, see the Sellers hub and our post on Pennsylvania's seller's disclosure law.

Brett's Take

Sellers often take a repair list personally. Don't. It's a business conversation. I want you to respond to the facts: what is the item, what does it cost, and what is it worth to keep this deal together? A calm, documented answer usually gets a better outcome than a fast, emotional one. Let's slow down and get this right.

Final Verdict: How Should a Philadelphia Seller Respond to Repair Requests?

Read your agreement, get estimates, and pick fix, credit, or decline item by item. Credits for the big stuff, fixes for the must-haves, and a polite no for the cosmetic.

Thinking about selling?

👉 Start with the Sellers hub or find out what your home is worth. Email [email protected] or DM me on social.

FAQ

Do sellers have to make repairs after a home inspection? Not automatically. It depends on your agreement of sale and the buyer's contingencies, so read it first.

Is a credit better than doing the repair? Often for big-ticket items, since it avoids delays. For must-have items like HVAC, a buyer may insist on a repair.

What if the buyer's list is unreasonable? You can decline items, counter, or consider moving on if you have other interest. Weigh the cost of restarting with a new buyer.

How much do repairs cost? It varies. Examples cited by HomeLight include roughly $202 per ungrounded outlet and $4 to $9 per linear foot for gutters; get local quotes.

Should I make repairs before listing? Fix obvious issues and disclose known ones. Pre-listing prep reduces surprises.

Data note: repair cost examples and the fix/credit/decline framework are from HomeLight's published guide. Your agreement of sale controls your actual obligations; consult an attorney for legal advice.

Brett Rosenthal, Realtor — Revolve Philly Group at Compass. Equal Housing Opportunity.